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Water Heaters: Don't Know Whatcha Got Til It's Gone

Water Heaters

Choosing the right water heater for you

Tankless or regular water heater?

Tankless water heaters are becoming more popular these days. They are more expensive and more expensive to service, but the advantages of a tankless can make the price seem reasonable. The tankless will never run out of hot water. Gas tankless water heaters are the most efficient.

A regular water heater will be cheaper, but your hot water will be limited. The regular water heater is an Energy Star product so it will be efficient, just not as efficient as a tankless unit.

What size should I get?

If you are removing a current water heater, you should not replace it with anything smaller that what you pulled out. When deciding what size water heater to put in, you have to consider use and amount of people living in the household. If you have a family of four or less, a 40 gallon water heater should be fine. If you have more people or if you use a lot of hot water, then I suggest going bigger.

Troubleshooting your water heater

Water heaters are generally very reliable but occasionally they do have problems. These problems can include:

No hot water

Possible Causes

• Faulty gas pilot
• Faulty gas thermocouple
• Faulty gas pilot control valve
• Faulty electric thermostat
• Faulty upper electric heating element

Possible Repairs

• Check gas pilot flame and pilot operation.
• Re-tighten, reposition or replace the gas thermocouple.
• Replace the gas pilot control valve.
• Confirm power is being provided to the electric water heater thermostat.
• If power is being provided to electric thermostat, replace thermostat or heating element.

Inadequate Hot Water

Possible Causes

• Unit is undersized for water heating demands
• Broken or damaged dip tube allowing cold and hot water to mix in tank
• Faulty plumbing installation has crossed cold and hot water connections
• Gas supply or control problems
• Faulty electric lower or upper heating element or high or low heating element thermostat.
• A constant supply of lukewarm water during a shower is indicative of a defective upper heating element. Short duration hot water supply during a shower is indicative of a defective lower heating element.

Possible Repairs

• Make sure water heater is not being overtaxed by hot water supply demands. The water heater should have 75% of its capacity as hot water (e.g., a 40 gallon WH should be used for a demand of 30 gallons). To determine required capacity see Calculating Fixture Flow Rates.
• Undo cold water inlet and pipe nipple and remove dip tube. Check condition and replace if required.
• Check for crossed connection by turning off water supply to water heater. Open hot water tap at a faucet. If there is water flow, then the a cross connection exists somewhere. Check for a hot water line connected to a cold water connection on the water heater or appliances such as washer, dishwasher, faucet or shower valves.
• Check for proper flame from burner. A natural gas flame should be a bright blue with the tip of the flame having just a tinge of yellow. A propane flame should have a bluish green flame with a tinge of yellow at the tip.
• Check for power and electrical continuity at the lower and upper heating elements. Replace water heating element if necessary. Clear tank of any sediment first.
• If elements test OK, check for power at upper electrical upper thermostat. If OK check lower thermostat. Replace if necessary.

Rust Colored Water

Possible Causes

• Corrosion occurring inside glass lined tank
• Sacrificial anode rod is failing (anode rods dissolve slowly to prevent rusting in the tank)

Possible Repairs

• Replace sacrificial anode rod with magnesium anode rod. Anode rods are available from a plumbing supply house.

Rotten Egg Smell

Possible Causes

• Bacteria in the tank sediment fed from hydrogen gas created from decay of sacrificial anode.

Possible Repairs

• Flush water heater
• Using a hydrogen peroxide solution of 2 pints 3% peroxide to 40 gallons of water, treat tank and run some of the solution into water lines.
• Let peroxide solution set in tank and pipes for 2 hours. Solution is not toxic and requires no rinsing.
• If problem persists, replace anode with a zinc-alloy anode.
• If problem still remains, replace water heater with a plastic lined tank type.

Low Rumbling or Popping Noise

Possible Causes

• Noise heard is sound of boiling water. Excessive buildup of sediment in bottom of tank is causing overheating of tank bottom and boiling of water to occur.

Possible Repairs

• Remove sediment by flushing water heater.

Higher Pitched Whining (electric water heater)

Possible Causes

• Buildup of scale material on electrical heating elements

Possible Repairs

• Flush water heater.
• Clean scale from water heater tank and elements
• Install low-watt density heating elements which have larger surface areas transferring heat to water more efficiently, conducting less electrical wattage per square inch than a standard high-wattage element.

Water Leak Around Base of Heater

Possible Causes

• Faulty T&P (temperature and pressure) relief valve
• T&P valve leak due to excessive pressure, overheating or stuck
• Leak from overhead or nearby plumbing connection
• Leaking water tank (corrosion likely)

Possible Repairs

• Place bucket under overflow pipe. Open and flush T&P valve clear of debris. If leak remains from valve, replace valve.
• Reduce thermostat setting to prevent tank overheating and opening T&P relief valve.
• Inspect bottom of tank by looking through combustion chamber. If water marks or heavy rusting is noticed or if water is noticed setting in combustion chamber bottom, then the water heater needs to be replaced.

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WATER HEATER DIP TUBE